This is an elegant solution that involves an essentially cable-less camera build, meaning the power can be sourced within the cage and nothing is tethered. No need for additional cables, or heavy/long batteries. This will allow for hot swapping of the camera, like the Alexa 35 or Arri 235. This is also great for simple builds – 24v Camera, and one wireless motor/mdr. We recommend moving items like wireless transmitters outside of the cage power, as 24v camera systems tend to require more wattage and the power within the cage is finite.
How do you power the Alexa 35 you might ask? Use your existing DJI Ronin 2 Alexa Mini/Mini LF power cable.
The 24v Power Hub connects directly to the bottom of your Ronin 2 and the 24v hub extension plugs into the existing power DJI power hub within the cage. It provides 24v regulated power up to 96w.
****It is NOT for all builds.**** It provides 100 watts of power, but the trade off is it’s not tethered. 100 watts of power goes quickly with cameras like the ARRI Alexa 35, as that camera pulls around 80 watts alone.
For builds that require more accessories to be run, i.e. three large motors, cinetape, Light Ranger, multiple wireless systems, etc., additional power is necessary, and should be sourced either on camera or outside the cage.
So the 24v HUB is perfect for small builds – aka camera and ONE single motor. Anything being powered above that draws the risk of running out of power, as the cage only provides
- 115 watts in total
**Solution** There’s more power available outside the cage, which is where we’re telling people to power their teradeks/aks. If you need three motors, a light ranger, etc., then you need the cabled option.